Hanky Code

Label TextBen Millett is an Iowa-based artist who stretches the definition of what a quilted object can be. His art retains connections to traditional quilt patterns and sewing techniques, but also is strongly influenced by painting, color theory, and LGBTQ activism. Elements of his own biography also frequently appear in his color and pattern choices. The colors of the rainbow pride flag, each shade of which was assigned a meaning by the flag’s creator, Gilbert Baker, in 1978 appear frequently in the artist’s quilts. Millett deliberately sews queer history into patterns inspired by traditional quilt blocking, suggesting the constant presence of queer people whether celebrated or not. Hanky Code is a reference to a time when communication among queer men had to be kept much more secret than today, particularly in regards to sexual activity. A secret language of bandanas, in various colors worn in certain pockets, was created to express specific desires without words. Although Millet primarily works with solid colors, the colored squares in Hanky Code are made from a patterned fabric that reminded the artist of a classic bandana. Millett cut the fabric into slightly irregular squares that he sewed on the front of a white quilt. Some of the squares appear alone, others as pairs. The pairs that congregate in the center contain both matching and mismatched hues, a subtle allusion to various types of lovers connecting. Although the work is mostly white on the front, the back – meant to be hidden – is constructed with large colorful and patterned squares further conveying the bandana theme. Most of Millett’s quilts are created with a blend of hand and machine stitching, but Hanky Code is entirely hand stitched, a testament to its importance to artist. The work is both a commemoration of queer history and a record of time spent unable to express his own identity.
Exhibition HistoryGood Business: An Iowa Pop Art Exhibition, curated by Niq Thomas, CSPS Hall, Cedar Rapids, IA. (May 2023)
Finding Pride: An Exhibition of Quilts, Simpson College Gallery of Art and Design, Indianola, IA. (Aug-Sep 2023)

Iowa Artists 2025: Ben Millett, curated by Laura Burkhalter and Ben Millett, Des Moines Art Center,
Published ReferencesBeach, Charlotte. “Ben Millett Explores Queer Identity in Solo Quilted Art Exhibition in Des Moines.” PRINT Magazine, 10 September 2025. (only online)
Rosa, Liz. “Queer history, pop culture and computers helped Iowa artist Ben Millett cover a gallery in quilts.” Little Village, 14 July 2025. (in print as well as online)
The thread brand Aurifil posted the Hanky Code on their official Instagram in April 2025.

DimensionsOverall: 60 x 60 in. (152.4 x 152.4 cm)

Accession Number 2026.2

Classificationstextile

SignedBen Millett (verso l,l, black ink on white fabric)

InscriptionsHanky Code 2023 Cotton fabric, batting, thread (verso l,l, black ink on white fabric)

ProvenanceArtist; Des Moines Art Center [purchased from the previous, 2026]